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Lauren E. Toney
For the Sun-News
LAS CRUCES - Chicharroneros from throughout southern New Mexico heated up their cauldrons early Saturday morning in a battle to see who serves up the best crispy pork skin treats in the region during the first-ever Chicharron Cook-Off.
Ten teams of chicharron cooks, or chicharroneros, from Las Cruces, Deming and Silver City, prepared the traditional Mexican dish at Beverly Hills Hall in Las Cruces.
Cauldrons began to heat up as early as 6 a.m. Saturday with chicharroneros continuing to salt their pork fat and stir boiling skins into the afternoon.
Spectators served as judges, offering their opinions on the varieties of chicharrones and selecting their favorite in a blind taste test, said organizer Chris Perez, who, along with brother Victor Perez, owns Beverly Hills Hall.
Dating back centuries in southern New Mexico, the tradition of making chicharrones starts with the slaughter of a pig, Chris Perez said. Teams brought 50 pounds of their own uncooked meat to Saturday's event, however.
"One day, we would like to incorporate this important part of the tradition into our cookoff," he said.
The process of preparing chicharrones "is a family tradition in southern New Mexico," Chris Perez said. "We wanted our cookoff to feel like a family gathering in the back yard."
Spectators received bowls of red chile meat and tortillas at the event, where live music, a horseshoe tournament, a car show and children's activities were also
The competitive atmosphere at Saturday's cookoff was also in keeping with traditional gatherings where chicharrones are served.
"Everyone always says, 'My grandfather makes the best chicharrones,' or 'My uncle makes the best,'" Chris Perez said. "This friendly competition gives people in southern New Mexico a chance to put their money where their mouth is."
Using an oar to stir a large, boiling cauldron of pig skins, competitor Mark Halvorsen was confident that his chicharrones would be voted the best in the region.
"Ever since I could look over the pot, I watched my uncle make chicharron. I would ask him why he was turning the heat up or down and, when I was old enough, I carried on the tradition," said Halvorsen, whose sons, ages 10 and 11, assisted him Saturday.
To create the perfect chicharrones, Halvorsen said he "cranks the fire way up" on the pork skin so that he hears "that blistering pop."
He said it's also important to salt the fat shaved off of the pig's back so that the "lard takes on a salty flavor."
The tradition is passed down "from generation to generation in southern New Mexico," Halvorsen said. "I believe my sons are almost ready to take over the tradition."
After casting his ballot in the blind taste-test Saturday afternoon, spectator Guero Medina and his family all agreed that "No. 1 had good flavor. It was nice and salty," he said.
"The best chicharron is made in southern New Mexico," Medina added. "Regardless of who wins (Saturday's) competition, this is a fact. It's a family tradition here."
"Our family makes chicharrones for Christmas, New Year's, weddings, and parties," added Medina, of Las Cruces, who was joined by wife Crystal Medina.
"We can't wait to come next year, too," Crystal Medina said.
Another state chicharron cookoff will take place Jan. 29 in Belen, Chris Perez said. As the Las Cruces cookoff grows organizers and competitors hope to one day take part in a battle of north vs. south, with winners from each cook-off competing for bragging rights as the best chicharronero in New Mexico.
